All About Growing Christmas Cactus Houseplants

The Christmas cactus is a beloved holiday plant that beautifully blooms in late fall and winter. With a little care and effort, these easy-going houseplants can thrive for many years. Let’s explore everything you need to know about growing gorgeous Christmas cacti!

Table of Contents

What Is a Christmas Cactus?

Often called Thanksgiving cacti or holiday cacti, these plants are actually members of the Schlumbergera genus. They are epiphytic cacti native to the coastal mountains and jungles of southeast Brazil.

Botanical Name & Description

Botanical Name: Schlumbergera species and hybrids, primarily S. truncata and S. bridgesii.
Plant Type: Epiphytic cactus native to Brazil.
Growth Habit: Segmented stems are made up of flattened segments that form arching branches.
Foliage: Flat, oval-shaped segments with scalloped or sawtooth edges. Smooth and leathery.
Stem Color: Shades of green, sometimes purplish. Older stems turn woody.
Size: Typically 6-12 inches tall, 18-36 inches wide. Stems can trail up to 3 feet long.
Flowers: Various colors like pink, red, white, purple, orange. Single, tubular shaped.
Bloom season: Late November to December, up to 8 weeks.

Christmas cacti have flattened stems made up of distinct segments. The edges are scalloped or serrated. When happy, the stems gracefully arch downward.

Habitat & Origin

In the wild, Christmas cacti grow in tropical forests. They are epiphytic, meaning they grow perched on trees and rocks rather than rooted in soil.

These cacti flourish in humid, shady environments. They are native to upland tropical rainforests but also grow in coastal mountain forests.

Types of Christmas Cactus

While all holiday cacti were once categorized as Schlumbergera bridgesii, it’s now recognized that there are multiple different species and hybrids:

Schlumbergera Bridgesii

True Christmas cactus
Flowers in late November to December
Petals have smooth, rounded edges
Common in households

Schlumbergera Truncata

Thanksgiving cactus
Blooms in November with pointed petal tips
Earlier bloom time than the Christmas cactus

Schlumbergera X Buckleyi

A natural hybrid between the above two species
Intermediate features like mid-November bloom
Very popular as houseplants

Other Hybrids

Many other hybrids have been bred with traits like:

Varying bloom seasons
Extended flowering
Different flower colors
Double blooms
Variegated foliage
Improved branching
Compact growth

How to Care for a Christmas Cactus

Caring for Christmas cacti isn’t difficult once you learn their preferences. Here’s a primer on their optimal growing conditions indoors:

Light Requirements

They need bright, indirect light. Direct hot sunlight can scorch their leaves.
Placing them near an east or west-facing window is ideal. These windows provide gentle morning or afternoon sunlight without intense midday rays.
A few hours of early morning sunlight from an east window is beneficial. It helps stimulate blooms and compact growth.
Too little light leads to weak, leggy stems and a failure to flower properly. Low light makes the plants stretch out.
Rotate the plants periodically to promote even, balanced growth on all sides.
You may need to provide supplemental artificial light in the winter when daylight hours are short. Grow lights can help flowering.
Light intensity directly impacts blooming. More sunlight leads to better flowering. But it must be diffused light, not direct.

Watering Needs

Christmas cacti prefer a more humid environment and should not be allowed to fully dry out between waterings.
However, take care not to overwater them either. Soggy soil can lead to root rot.
A good rule of thumb is to water a Christmas cactus once the top inch of soil becomes dry. Stick your finger in the pot to check moisture.
The soil should be kept evenly moist, but not saturated. err on the side of slightly drier rather than too wet.
Water with room temperature water, not cold. Pour water until it runs out the drainage holes.
In winter when plants are dormant, reduce watering frequency. Only water when potting mix is partly dry.
If plants are stressed and flower buds drop, allow soil to dry out more before watering again.
Ensure pots have drainage holes and use a well-aerated potting mix, not dense soil that retains moisture.
Water less often in darker winter months since growth slows.

Temperature & Humidity

Christmas cacti prefer consistent, warm temperatures between 65-75°F during the daytime.
Cooler nighttime temps around 55-65°F are recommended. This temperature drop helps trigger blooming.
Avoid placing Christmas cacti near cold drafts, air vents, or windows that get very cold at night.
Sudden temperature fluctuations can shock the plant and cause flower buds to drop. Keep them away from hot and cold air blasts.
High humidity is beneficial for Christmas cacti. Ideal levels are 40-50% or more.
You can provide extra humidity by placing the pot on a pebble tray filled with water. Misting the leaves also helps.
Low humidity causes the leaf tips to brown and dry out. Proper humidity keeps the foliage lush.
Temperatures between 50-60°F are ideal in fall when you want the plants to set flower buds.

Soil & Fertilizer

Use a loose, well-draining potting mix. Avoid dense soil that stays too wet.
A cacti/succulent blend or African violet mix works well. Make sure it drains readily.
Add perlite, pumice, or coarse sand to improve drainage and aeration. About 25% is ideal.
Re-pot every 2-3 years in fresh soil. This prevents buildup of salts and replenishes nutrients.
Fertilize monthly in spring and summer with a balanced houseplant fertilizer diluted to half strength.
Discontinue fertilizer in late summer/early fall when flower buds are forming.
Excess fertilizer can damage roots, cause leaf burn, and inhibit flowering.
Overly rich soil can make plants leggy and weak. Well-draining mix is critical.
If re-potting, choose a container only 1-2 inches larger than the current pot.

Pruning & Propagation

Prune right after flowering concludes, usually in late winter/early spring.
Use sterile, sharp scissors or pruning shears. Make cuts at 45-degree angles above a segment joint.
Remove any long, overgrown stems that detract from the plant’s shape.
Pinching or trimming back stems encourages branching and fullness.
Cuttings are easily rooted in potting mix, perlite, or water to propagate new plants.
Take 3-5 inch cuttings. Allow cut ends to callus over for a few days before planting.
Keep cuttings warm and humid while rooting. Bottom heat of 70-75°F speeds rooting.
Once rooted, pot up cuttings individually and keep evenly moist.
Mature plants can be divided at the root ball if they outgrow their pots.

Pruning Christmas cacti right after blooming helps maintain their ornamental shape. And propagating by cuttings is simple – just root in warm, humid conditions.

Getting a Christmas Cactus to Bloom

Convincing a Christmas cactus to flower can be tricky. Here are some tips:

Bloom Period

Most Christmas cacti bloom from late November through December, hence their name.
Some hybrids and cultivars may bloom a bit earlier or later, starting in October or lasting until January.
Thanksgiving cacti bloom earlier, in November, while Easter cacti bloom later from February to May.
Mature, healthy plants usually begin setting flower buds around October in response to shorter daylight hours.
Individual blossoms last about 1-2 weeks before falling off. Entire flowering period is 4-6 weeks.
Buds first appear along the edges of the leaf segments. They are pink knobs that gradually open.
Open flowers range from shades of pink, red, purple, orange, white and bi-colors.
After the initial holiday bloom period ends, plants may rebloom lightly in late winter/spring.

Peak bloom is late November to December, lasting about one month. Some varieties will start or extend flowering earlier or later.

Encouraging Flowers

Initiate flower bud development by providing long uninterrupted dark periods for 6-8 weeks prior. Keep in a dark room from about 5pm to 8am daily.
Cooler temperatures around 50-60°F will also promote blooming. Move to a cool location for those 6-8 weeks.
Allow the soil to dry out more than normal during the bud set period. Reduce watering frequency.
Discontinue fertilizer application during the flower initiating stage and while buds are forming.
Once flower buds appear, return to normal care – water when partially dry and move to a warmer location.
Insufficient sunlight and artificial light during the year can inhibit flowering. They need bright light.
Any stress or shock like repotting, overwatering, or temperature swings can cause buds to drop before opening.

Bud Drop Troubleshooting

If flower buds start to form but then drop before opening, try:

This is usually caused by stress, whether from cultural factors or pests/disease.
Ensure correct day length, providing 12-14 hours of complete darkness each night. Interrupted darkness prevents flowering.
Move plant to a cooler location around 50-60°F at night to stimulate blooming.
Check that you have allowed the soil to dry out more than usual. Overwatering causes buds to drop.
Provide gentle air circulation and good ventilation. Stagnant, hot air encourages bud drop.
Look for signs of pests like mealybugs that can weaken the plant and cause buds to fall.
Avoid repotting or fertilizing when buds are forming. Transplant shock can make them drop.
Reduce handling and maintain stable conditions to prevent stress. Any shock can abort flowers.

With troubleshooting and preventive care, Christmas cacti can successfully bloom year after year. Be attentive and catch issues early.

Common Problems with Christmas Cacti

When cared for properly, Christmas cacti are quite hardy. But they can develop issues if neglected.

Insects & Diseases

Here are some common insect pests and diseases that affect Christmas cacti:

Mealybugs – These tiny sap-sucking insects can cluster at leaf joints. They leave behind cottony residue and stippled damage.
Scale – Hard shell-like bumps that attach to leaves and stems, robbing nutrients and moisture.
Aphids – Tiny pear-shaped insects that feed on plant juices and excrete sticky honeydew.
Fungus gnats – Harmless but annoying black flies that breed in soggy soil.
Root rot – Caused by overwatering. Fungal disease that rots roots and stems.
Botrytis – A gray fungal rot that develops in overly humid conditions.
Bacterial soft rot – Bacterial infection of tissues damaged by injury to stem or roots.
Bud drop – Failure of flower buds to open due to cultural stress or shock.
Sunburn – Crispy brown spots on leaves from too much direct sun.

With good care and pest monitoring, Christmas cacti are generally vigorous and problem-free plants.

Identifying Issues

Here are some tips for identifying common issues with Christmas cacti:

Wilting, drooping stems – This often indicates under-watering. Feel soil to check for dryness.
Brown leaf tips – Low humidity causes dried-out leaf margins. Increase humidity.
Flowers not blooming – Insufficient sunlight or artificial lighting.
Flower buds falling off – Stress from overwatering, temperature change, drought, or pests.
Mealybugs – Look for white cottony clusters on stems and undersides of leaves.
Scale – Check for hard bumps attached to leaves and stems.
Aphids – Tiny pear-shaped green, yellow, or black insects on new growth.
Fungus gnats – Look for small black flies flying around soil.
Root rot – Drooping and collapsed stems. Roots turn brown and mushy.
Sunburn – Crispy brown spots on leaves, especially if in direct sun.

Closely examine plants and identify issues early before they worsen. Address culture and treat pests.

Fixing Problems

Here are some tips for fixing common problems with Christmas cacti:

Improve growing conditions – Adjust water, light, temperature, humidity.
Isolate plants with pests – Remove and quarantine infested plants to prevent spread.
Treat pests – Insecticidal soap, neem oil, horticultural oils, sticky traps.
Sterilize tools – If cutting out rotted sections, sterilize tools to avoid spreading disease.
Trim off damaged sections – Cut back dead or diseased parts to improve appearance.
Repot if necessary – Discard old soil and sterilize pot if root rot is severe.
Rinse leaves – Wash off dust buildup, insect honeydew, or fungal spores.
Provide support – Stake droopy stems until plant recovers strength.
Discard severely infested – Throw out badly infested plants rather than trying to save.

With attentive care and early intervention, most Christmas cactus problems can be successfully corrected.

Displaying Christmas Cacti

Christmas cacti make excellent holiday decorations as well as year-round houseplants.

As Houseplants

Here are some tips for successfully growing Christmas cacti as long-term houseplants:

Place in a bright, sunny window out of direct afternoon sun. An east or west exposure is ideal.
Water thoroughly when the top inch of soil is dry to the touch. Don’t let potting mix get bone dry.
Rotate the plant periodically to promote even growth on all sides towards the light source.
Mist leaves occasionally to increase humidity around the plant.
Apply a balanced liquid fertilizer monthly during spring and summer when actively growing.
Repot every 2-3 years in fresh potting mix to replenish nutrients.
Prune after flowering to remove spent blooms and shape the plant.
Propagate new plants from stem cuttings for fuller, shrubbier growth.
Keep away from drafts from windows, doors, or vents to avoid temperature shock.

With the right care, Christmas cacti make excellent long-lasting houseplants.

In Holiday Arrangements

Here are some tips for using Christmas cacti in holiday arrangements and decorations:

Show off plants in full bloom for optimal display. Time it for peak holiday season.
Mix in with classic decor like pinecones, holly, evergreen boughs, poinsettias, etc.
Add accents like candles, ornaments, pine sprigs, red berries, gold spray paint.
Display for 1-2 weeks maximum, then return to normal conditions. Avoid temperature swings.
Keep arrangements out of high-traffic areas and away from heat vents or radiators.
Water arrangements as needed to keep foil, moss, etc from drying out.
Provide bright, indirect light to extend the lifespan of blooms.
Move away from the center of dining tables, so blooms don’t get accidentally brushed.
Place out of reach of pets who may nibble on the plants.

Christmas cacti lend a festive pop of color to holiday tables, mantels, and more when at their showy best.

Other Holiday Cacti

While Christmas cacti are the most popular, there are other Schlumbergera species that bloom around holidays:

Thanksgiving Cactus

Here are some key facts about Thanksgiving cacti:

Botanical name is Schlumbergera truncata. Also called crab cactus.
Native to coastal mountains of Brazil.
Epiphytic cactus that grows on trees and rocks.
Flowers in late November, earlier than Christmas cacti.
Pointed, claw-like tips on the ends of the flower petals.
Flower colors include purple, magenta, red, pink, orange, and white.
Requires similar care as Christmas cacti.
Needs bright, indirect light to bloom properly.
Allow soil to dry between waterings. Mist for humidity.
Initiate buds with cool temps and long dark periods.
Makes an excellent indoor plant beyond the holidays.
Fun, easy-care houseplant with holiday-themed blooms.

So in summary, the Thanksgiving cactus is a close cousin to the Christmas cactus but flowers a few weeks earlier in late November.

Easter Cactus

Here are some key facts about Easter cacti:

Botanical name is Hatiora gaertneri, formerly known as Schlumbergera gaertneri.
Native to Brazil where it grows epiphytically in trees.
Flowers bloom from late February through May, coinciding with Easter.
Blossoms are more tubular with the stamens protruding.
Wider range of bright colors like magenta, pink, red, orange, yellow, and white.
Requires warm temperatures year-round, about 70-80°F.
Needs slightly more watering than Christmas cacti. Mist for humidity.
Initiate flowering with 12-14 hour nights and reduced watering.
Requires high light levels year round to bloom properly.
Fun, long-blooming holiday plant. Also attractive when not in flower.

The Easter cactus blooms in spring with vivid colors. It needs warm temps and bright light to thrive as a houseplant.

All holiday cacti require similar care and make excellent indoor specimens.

Conclusion

With lush green foliage, vibrant holiday blooms, and easy care, it’s simple to see why Christmas cacti are timeless houseplants. Give them the proper growing conditions and these epiphytic cacti will thrive while adding festive charm. Soon, you’ll be able to enjoy their spectacular flowers year after year.

FAQs

What is the difference between a Christmas cactus and a Thanksgiving cactus?

The main difference is the shape and tips of the flower petals. Christmas cacti have smooth, rounded petal edges. Thanksgiving cacti have pointed or serrated petal tips.

When should I buy a Christmas cactus?

You can purchase Christmas cacti anytime, but they are most commonly available in late fall around the holidays. The best time is when they are in bloom or bud.

Where is the best place to put my Christmas cactus?

Bright indirect light is ideal. An east or west-facing window is perfect. Avoid direct southern sun exposure.

How often should I water a Christmas cactus?

Allow the potting mix to partially dry out between thorough waterings. Take care not to overwater, as soggy soil leads to rot.

Why did my Christmas cactus drop its flower buds?

This is usually caused by stress from improper growing conditions. Common factors are incorrect light, temperature swings, overwatering, or lack of humidity.